The Sticky Subject of Kutia a.k.a. Ukrainian “Porridge”

This morning Neil Gaiman was in a NY cab and tweeted about his Ukrainian cab driver, who picked up Neil because he was a man and “if 1st fare is a woman is bad luck all day.”

I replied by explaining that this tradition is likely related to the Ukrainian superstition that a man should be the first one to enter a house (or even call a house) on New Year’s Day. I also shared the tradition of throwing kutia (porridge) onto the ceiling on Christmas Eve. If it sticks, it means good luck for the household, and the more kernels that stick, the greater the luck.

After tweeting:

What I have learned this morning: 1) Ukrainian Taxi drivers are superstitious 2) Ukrainians throw porridge at the ceiling for luck.

Neil apparently received quite a few tweets from Ukrainians in Ukraine who had not heard of this tradition. Some had not heard of the porridge.

After a few tweets redirected my way (thanks, Neil 😉 ), I decided to quickly write this post with a few highlights.

  • The Ukrainian “porridge” to which I was referring is kutia. Some people describe it is as a flummery. Neither is quite right, but they’re close.
  • Kutia is an ancient dish that was once eaten at the solstice and is now the first of the twelve dishes to be eaten on Christmas Eve dinner (called Sviata Vecheria)
  • A nice essay about the variation in Sviat Vechir traditions can be found here, by Orysia Tracz, who has written extensively about Ukrainian traditions.
  • There are several recipes online, and as many variations as there are for Irish oatmeal. Everyone has their own particular way of making it. Google “kutia recipe” for some ideas.
  • The basic recipe we use is to first sort & rinse the bulgur wheat, soak it overnight (6-8 hours), boil it for an hour or so (depends on how long you soaked it and how firm you like it), then rinse again. Add poppyseeds, raisins, crushed walnuts, and honey to taste. In my opinion, the key is in the honey. (Ukrainians have been beekeepers for generations, and Ukrainian honey was prized. Here’s a link for more information from Medyana Rosa.)
  • There is a tradition of throwing the kutia up to the ceiling on Sviat Vechir. My grandparents did this when my father was young, and it continued into my childhood. Our Ukrainian friends and family did this and exchanged stories about it.

The things that I find fascinating about this exchange is that many Ukrainians in Ukraine have not heard of the traditions, while Ukrainians in Diaspora (Canada, US, Australia, Argentina) have likely heard of it from parents or grandparents, even if they don’t still celebrate in the traditional ways.

A few weeks ago I was part of Zlukacamp, a conference with Ukrainian students studying in the US, and the subject of traditions came up. When I was growing up, I was taught (from my parents, grandparents, Ukrainian dancing and school, church) that because Ukraine was not free, it was up to us to learn the language, study the history and traditions, and keep them alive.

My grandparents came from Ukraine (via Germany and the Displaced Persons Camps) in the 1940s. The Ukraine I learned about was very much the Ukraine of the 1930s and 40s, the language of that time, the traditions of that time.

Now Ukraine is an Independent country, but some things have been lost, and other things have changed over time. Like any country and people, they have grown a great deal in the last several decades.

So I’m not really surprised that the tradition is lost, but I’m happy to have been able to share it with some people on Twitter, and I’m glad that I had the opportunity to learn about it as a child, to celebrate it as an adult, and even to write about it in my novel, The Silence of Trees (kutia and Sviat Vechir are a part of the story).

I look forward to someday seeing Ukraine of the 21st century, and I hope to be able to share with them and others some of the treasures from an older Ukraine, a Ukraine rich in folklore, fairy tales, and folk arts.

Speculative Coffee and the Allusive Alchemy of the Neil Gaiman Latte

Speculative Coffee:  Coffee that exists on the threshold between this world and the liminal realms; coffee that encourages speculation, invokes the Muses, and inspires travelers. The art of crafting speculative coffee is a form of literary coffea alchemy, requiring an extensive knowledge of certain Books of Magic and requiring tools of the barista-alchemist. When successful, the ever-elusive speculative coffee is allusive ambrosia.

I’ve been a fan of Neil Gaiman’s since the Sandman days and have followed his career and books with interest, reading his blog and gleaning quite a bit from his method of maintaining contact with his audience in a way that’s wide-reaching and personal.

Recently there has been a great deal of Internet and Twitter talk about coffees named after Neil Gaiman. It seems to have sprung from a bookshop in Indonesia, and the idea took off from there. The Guardian did a story on the Reading Lights bookshop in West Java:
http://www.guardian.co.uk/books/booksblog/2009/jan/20/writers-food-novelists-analogy?commentpage=1

Then Needcoffee.com did an article on Neil Gaiman: Man, Myth, Legend, Coffee Drink:
http://www.needcoffee.com/2009/01/23/neil-gaiman-coffee/

This was accompanied by two other coffeeshops that jumped on the Create-a-Neil-Gaimain-Coffee bandwagon:
Strange Brew in Greenwood, Indiana has a Neil Gaiman Latte (and a colorful description of the process of creating the drink on Joan of Dark’s blog):
http://joanofdarkknits.blogspot.com/2009/01/neil-gaiman-needs-coffee.html

ZubZub in Boonville, Northern California, has their version of the Neil Gaiman Latte: espresso, bitter almond, dark chocolate, black cherry.
http://www.zubzubicecream.com/

There is also a list of growing suggestions on Twitter from Neil’s fans. The campaign to find the quintessential Neil Gaiman coffee (or beverage, since Neil himself prefers tea), is a testament to his writing and ever-growing  fan base, but it’s also grassroots, internet publicity at its finest. What better way to spread the word about Neil and his writing than to bring a coffee named after Neil to your favorite local coffee shop. It’s brilliant and fun. Where else will the Neil Gaiman coffees appear? How many different cities and countries?

Perhaps next will be Gaiman character-inspired beverages: Coraline macchiato with black sugar button; hot Nobody chocolate with marshmallow skull; an iced Odd Mocha, served with an eye-shaped biscuit; Death Chai made with Gunflower and Rosehips teas. It’s poetry in coffee.

Keep an eye out for a Neil Gaiman coffee coming to a café near you, and thanks to The Graveyard Book, perhaps there will be a Lupescu Latte?

~Valya Dudycz Lupescu